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Tuesday, August 5, 2008

MAKING OF THE MAGNIFICENT TEMPLE DEDICATED TO MEENAKSHI SUNDERESWARAR

It is said that the people of the city wake up, not by the call of nature but at the chant of hymns at the temple. There are very few temples in India which share the grandeur of this twin-temple complex. Since the temples is so huge it is quite possible to lose one's bearings and it is, therefore, advisable to engage a guide or go with a person who has already been there several times and has thorough knowledge.

But unlike the other temple cities of Tamil Nadu whose fame relies heavily on the fabulous contributions of great empires Madurai, though undoubtedly known first and foremost for the Meenakshi temple, is very much modern and progressive city.

Walking westwards from the Ashta Shakti Mandapam, you enter the Meenakshi Naicker Mandapam. Each pillar in this hall has the sculpted figure of a Yali - a lion-like animal with an elephant's proboscis. A small mandapam joins the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam and the Meenakshi Naicker Mandapam.

Of its 12 gopurams, four of the tallest stand at the outer walls of the temple. The 48.4m high southern gopuram is the most spectacular and has over 1500 sculptures. From its top, it is possible to obtain a panoramic view of the city. The Rajagopuram on the eastern side is an unfinished structure which has a 174 sq.ft base, and had this tower been completed, it would surely have been the largest of its kind in the country. The eight smaller gopurams are within the compounds of the twin temples.

The Outer Gopuram, Ashta Shakti Mandapam, Chitra Gopuram, Mudali Mandapam, Potramaraikulam Rani Mangmmal Mandapam, Oonjal Mandapam, Killikoondu Mandapam, Ayirakkal Mandapam, Musical Pillars, Thattu Chuttur Mandapam and the Raja Gopuram.

The temple had its origin in a modest structure that conformed to the barest agamic (rules governing sacred structures) essentials. But it grewwith additions and alterations, and despite the various sieges to which the city has been subjected, the temple of today is an enormous complex occupying an area approximately 240 meters by 8260 meters.

There is a verandah on each side of this mandapam. On the southern verandah there is a statue of Goddess Parvathi eight feet in height. She is in a dancing pose with a 'Soolayudham' (a fierce weapon) in one of her hands. A five-hooded serpent shelters her head from the sun and rain. Some consider this statue to be that of a huntress. On the northern verandah, there is a statue of a hunter. This statue is also eight feet high. The hunter has majestic look. The legends say that Lord Sundarar and Sree Meenakshi appeared in the form of a hunter and huntress and blessed a villain who repented for his crimes. It is believed that these statues relieve the suffering of those who repent for their sins.

Passing through another pavilion called the Mudali Mandapam, you came to the Potramaraikulam (golden lotus tank). This tank is 165 feet long and 120 feet wide. There are stone steps on all four sides leading almost to its bottom. The tank is filled with water during most part of the year. Only very rarely does the tank get dry. Before entering the sanctum sanctorum, the devotees who go into the temple bare-footed, wash their feet in the tank's water.

The southwestern comer of the Golden Lily Tank presents a grand view to one coming in the from the Mudali Mandapam. In the background, we see the upper part of the majestic southern tower of the temple. The area around this tank was the meeting place of the Tamil Sangam - the ancient academy poets. The history of the Sangam goes back to the days when gods dallied with men. This academy judged the worth of any work of literature present~ before it by throwing it into the tank. Only those that did not sink well'~ considered worthy of attention. The tank is surrounded by a pillared corridor steps lead down into the tank; enabling worshippers to bathe in it. The Oonjal (swing) Mandapam and Killikoodu (parrot cage) Mandapam are on the western side of the tank.

OONJAL MANDAPAM

Every Friday, the golden idols of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar are seated on the swing in the Oonjal Mandapam and hymns are sung as the deities gaily swing to and fro. The parrots in the Killikoodu Mandapam have been trained to repeat Meenakshi's name. But more interesting are the 28 pillars of the mandapam, which exhibit some excellent sculptures of figures from Hindu mythology. From here, you can enter Meenakshi's sanctum sanctorum through a gateway surmounted by a three-storied tower. Non-Hindus are not allowed beyond this entrance. Having worshipped Meenakshi, you cross over to the Sundareswarar temple through a five-storied tower-entrance. Opposite this gateway is a huge idol of Vinayaka (this is called Mukkuruni Vinayaka made of one stone). The sanctum sanctorum of Sundareswarar, is closed to non-Hindus. Nevertheless, there is a lot to interest the non-Hindu visitor outside the sanctum sanctorum.

The Swamy Temple On each side of the entrance to the Swamy temple (Lord Sundareswarar) is a statue of a Dwarabalaga or guard, 12 feet tall. On a nearby pillar, we see Lord Siva and his consort Sree Meenakshi, each with five heads. Other statues 8re that of Appar, Sundarar, Sambandar and Manickavasagar. Next is the three-storied tower of the Swamy sannadhi, bearing in all 36 sculptures. Non-Hindus are not allowed to go beyond this entrance. Inside : the gateway of this tower are Adhigara Nandhi and Chamundi.

After the pragaram, we enter the inner pragaram of Lord Sundareswarar. We first come to a big hall called Kambathadi Mandapam - 'Velli Ambalam' (Silver Hall) (see Five Ambalams for details), there is a unique idol of Nataraja dancing with his right leg raised to the shoulder instead of the other way round. The pillars of the Mandapam are decorated with scenes from the wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar, many of which depict Shiva and Vishnu together, the latter having come to give Meenakshi away in marriage. The Temple Museum is housed in the hall of thousand pillars. There are 985 richly carved pillars here and each one surpasses the other in beauty. . The idol of Nataraja is plated with silver.

The Veera Vasantharayar Mandapam is in the Aadi Veedhi, a street which runs around the Meenakshi - Sundareswarar temple. To the north of this Mandapam is the fascinating Ayirankaal Mandapam (thousand pillars hall). 985 pillars, each profusely decorated, provide an exuberant display of Dravidian sculpture. This 16th century mandapam also houses the Temple Museum. At the Sundareswarar temple across the courtyard, Lord Shiva is represented as a lingam and here too, entry is restricted. The corridor outside the shrine has the stump of a tree under which Indra is believed to have worshipped a lingam.

Going south from the Thousand Pillar Mandapam, we come to an open space where we find a newly built mandapam, the Mangaiyarkarasi Mandapam. The statues of Mangayarkarasi, Kulachirayar, Koon Pandian and Gnanasambandar find a place in this mandapam. The Linga form of Lord Siva has also been installed in this mandapam. This mandapam is named after the queen who contributed well to the growth of the Tamil language and the Shaivite religion.

To the south of the Mangayarkarasi Mandapam is the Servaikarar Mandapam, built by the Marudhu Pandyas. On the left pillar we see the figure of Elder Marudhu. We next come to the Thirukalyana Mandapam in which the marriage ceremony of Sree Meenakshi is performed every year during the Chithirai Festival. On the southern and northern walls, the origin of the universe and the living beings is painted within big circles. Just outside this mandapam, towards the west, are the Auspicial Pillars. Each pillar, when struck, produces a different swara - musical note.

Another magnificent construction within the temple is the Vasantha Mandapam built by Tirumalai Nayakkar. Vasanthotsavam - the Spring festival - is celebrated in this Mandapam in Vaikasi (April/May). Its pillars contain elaborate sculptures of Shiva, Meenakshi, scenes from their wedding as well as the figures of ten of the Nayakar Kings and their consorts. This is also called the Pudhu Mandapam.

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