Tirumalai-Tirupati

The Most Visited Temple in the World
Lord Srinivasa's Sacred Abode on the Venkata Hill

At all times
past
present
future

You are my mother, my father
my very life itself

Having gotten you, will I ever let you go?
O lord of the three worlds
O Supreme One!

With your eternal fame, so far-reaching,
With your sweet-smelling cool garland of
tulasi leaves
You grace the cool Venkata hill.

-- Tiruvaymoli 2.6.10
Significance: Tirupati/Tirumala is a pilgrimage center of great significance and is visited by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throughout the year.Venkateswara, or Srinivasa or Balaji as the presiding deity Vishnu is known, is enshrined in this temple, located on a range of the Eastern Ghats, called the Seven Hills.It is an ancient temple and its glory has been sung by the saints of the yesteryears.

Said to be the richest temple in India, this temple is a vibrant cultural and philanthropic institution with a grand history spanning several centuries. It attracts pilgrims from all over the country and it is not unusual for pilgrims to stand in line for hours together to obtain a glimpse of the presiding deity for a few fleeting seconds.

TTD, or Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam manages the affairs of the temple, the well being of the pilgrims, the upkeep of the environs in and around the Tirumala hills and sponsors several undertakings that are religious, charitable, social and educational in nature.

References to Tiruvenkatam abound in early Tamil literature(Tolkappiam and Silappadikaram) . Explicit reference to the Lord of Tiruvenkatam is found in the works of the early Tamil Saint Poets Poigai Alwar, Bhuthathu Alwar and Pay Alwar as well as in the poems of the later Alwars. The great religious leader Ramanuja Acharya is said to have visited here in the 11th - 12th century AD.

References to Venkatachalam are also found in several of the Puranas. Tirumalai constitutes one of the 108 Sri Vaishnava Divya Desams - sacred shrines in the Sri Vaishnavite tradition. Krishna Deva Raya of the Vijayanagar Empire is said to have visited this temple 7 times. An image of his is also found in the temple. The Venkatesa Itihasa Mala and the Varaha Purana contain several legends connected with Tirumalai.

PORTAMARAIKULAM [GOLDEN LOTUS TANK]

The Portamaraikulam or the golden lotus tank is the place where the Tamil literary society called Sangam used to meet to decide the merit of the literary works presented to them. The manuscripts that sank were dismissed while those that floated were considered to be great works of literature. Madurai was once the learned city of knowledge and many ancient works in Tamil, including Thirukkural was accepted here as a great literary work after floating in this Golden Tank. Legend has it that once upon a time, there was a golden lotus floating in the tank and temple authorities have placed a Golden Lotus now similar to the one in ancient time.

MAKING OF THE MAGNIFICENT TEMPLE DEDICATED TO MEENAKSHI SUNDERESWARAR

It is said that the people of the city wake up, not by the call of nature but at the chant of hymns at the temple. There are very few temples in India which share the grandeur of this twin-temple complex. Since the temples is so huge it is quite possible to lose one's bearings and it is, therefore, advisable to engage a guide or go with a person who has already been there several times and has thorough knowledge.

But unlike the other temple cities of Tamil Nadu whose fame relies heavily on the fabulous contributions of great empires Madurai, though undoubtedly known first and foremost for the Meenakshi temple, is very much modern and progressive city.

Walking westwards from the Ashta Shakti Mandapam, you enter the Meenakshi Naicker Mandapam. Each pillar in this hall has the sculpted figure of a Yali - a lion-like animal with an elephant's proboscis. A small mandapam joins the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam and the Meenakshi Naicker Mandapam.

Of its 12 gopurams, four of the tallest stand at the outer walls of the temple. The 48.4m high southern gopuram is the most spectacular and has over 1500 sculptures. From its top, it is possible to obtain a panoramic view of the city. The Rajagopuram on the eastern side is an unfinished structure which has a 174 sq.ft base, and had this tower been completed, it would surely have been the largest of its kind in the country. The eight smaller gopurams are within the compounds of the twin temples.

The Outer Gopuram, Ashta Shakti Mandapam, Chitra Gopuram, Mudali Mandapam, Potramaraikulam Rani Mangmmal Mandapam, Oonjal Mandapam, Killikoondu Mandapam, Ayirakkal Mandapam, Musical Pillars, Thattu Chuttur Mandapam and the Raja Gopuram.

The temple had its origin in a modest structure that conformed to the barest agamic (rules governing sacred structures) essentials. But it grewwith additions and alterations, and despite the various sieges to which the city has been subjected, the temple of today is an enormous complex occupying an area approximately 240 meters by 8260 meters.

There is a verandah on each side of this mandapam. On the southern verandah there is a statue of Goddess Parvathi eight feet in height. She is in a dancing pose with a 'Soolayudham' (a fierce weapon) in one of her hands. A five-hooded serpent shelters her head from the sun and rain. Some consider this statue to be that of a huntress. On the northern verandah, there is a statue of a hunter. This statue is also eight feet high. The hunter has majestic look. The legends say that Lord Sundarar and Sree Meenakshi appeared in the form of a hunter and huntress and blessed a villain who repented for his crimes. It is believed that these statues relieve the suffering of those who repent for their sins.

Passing through another pavilion called the Mudali Mandapam, you came to the Potramaraikulam (golden lotus tank). This tank is 165 feet long and 120 feet wide. There are stone steps on all four sides leading almost to its bottom. The tank is filled with water during most part of the year. Only very rarely does the tank get dry. Before entering the sanctum sanctorum, the devotees who go into the temple bare-footed, wash their feet in the tank's water.

The southwestern comer of the Golden Lily Tank presents a grand view to one coming in the from the Mudali Mandapam. In the background, we see the upper part of the majestic southern tower of the temple. The area around this tank was the meeting place of the Tamil Sangam - the ancient academy poets. The history of the Sangam goes back to the days when gods dallied with men. This academy judged the worth of any work of literature present~ before it by throwing it into the tank. Only those that did not sink well'~ considered worthy of attention. The tank is surrounded by a pillared corridor steps lead down into the tank; enabling worshippers to bathe in it. The Oonjal (swing) Mandapam and Killikoodu (parrot cage) Mandapam are on the western side of the tank.

OONJAL MANDAPAM

Every Friday, the golden idols of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar are seated on the swing in the Oonjal Mandapam and hymns are sung as the deities gaily swing to and fro. The parrots in the Killikoodu Mandapam have been trained to repeat Meenakshi's name. But more interesting are the 28 pillars of the mandapam, which exhibit some excellent sculptures of figures from Hindu mythology. From here, you can enter Meenakshi's sanctum sanctorum through a gateway surmounted by a three-storied tower. Non-Hindus are not allowed beyond this entrance. Having worshipped Meenakshi, you cross over to the Sundareswarar temple through a five-storied tower-entrance. Opposite this gateway is a huge idol of Vinayaka (this is called Mukkuruni Vinayaka made of one stone). The sanctum sanctorum of Sundareswarar, is closed to non-Hindus. Nevertheless, there is a lot to interest the non-Hindu visitor outside the sanctum sanctorum.

The Swamy Temple On each side of the entrance to the Swamy temple (Lord Sundareswarar) is a statue of a Dwarabalaga or guard, 12 feet tall. On a nearby pillar, we see Lord Siva and his consort Sree Meenakshi, each with five heads. Other statues 8re that of Appar, Sundarar, Sambandar and Manickavasagar. Next is the three-storied tower of the Swamy sannadhi, bearing in all 36 sculptures. Non-Hindus are not allowed to go beyond this entrance. Inside : the gateway of this tower are Adhigara Nandhi and Chamundi.

After the pragaram, we enter the inner pragaram of Lord Sundareswarar. We first come to a big hall called Kambathadi Mandapam - 'Velli Ambalam' (Silver Hall) (see Five Ambalams for details), there is a unique idol of Nataraja dancing with his right leg raised to the shoulder instead of the other way round. The pillars of the Mandapam are decorated with scenes from the wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar, many of which depict Shiva and Vishnu together, the latter having come to give Meenakshi away in marriage. The Temple Museum is housed in the hall of thousand pillars. There are 985 richly carved pillars here and each one surpasses the other in beauty. . The idol of Nataraja is plated with silver.

The Veera Vasantharayar Mandapam is in the Aadi Veedhi, a street which runs around the Meenakshi - Sundareswarar temple. To the north of this Mandapam is the fascinating Ayirankaal Mandapam (thousand pillars hall). 985 pillars, each profusely decorated, provide an exuberant display of Dravidian sculpture. This 16th century mandapam also houses the Temple Museum. At the Sundareswarar temple across the courtyard, Lord Shiva is represented as a lingam and here too, entry is restricted. The corridor outside the shrine has the stump of a tree under which Indra is believed to have worshipped a lingam.

Going south from the Thousand Pillar Mandapam, we come to an open space where we find a newly built mandapam, the Mangaiyarkarasi Mandapam. The statues of Mangayarkarasi, Kulachirayar, Koon Pandian and Gnanasambandar find a place in this mandapam. The Linga form of Lord Siva has also been installed in this mandapam. This mandapam is named after the queen who contributed well to the growth of the Tamil language and the Shaivite religion.

To the south of the Mangayarkarasi Mandapam is the Servaikarar Mandapam, built by the Marudhu Pandyas. On the left pillar we see the figure of Elder Marudhu. We next come to the Thirukalyana Mandapam in which the marriage ceremony of Sree Meenakshi is performed every year during the Chithirai Festival. On the southern and northern walls, the origin of the universe and the living beings is painted within big circles. Just outside this mandapam, towards the west, are the Auspicial Pillars. Each pillar, when struck, produces a different swara - musical note.

Another magnificent construction within the temple is the Vasantha Mandapam built by Tirumalai Nayakkar. Vasanthotsavam - the Spring festival - is celebrated in this Mandapam in Vaikasi (April/May). Its pillars contain elaborate sculptures of Shiva, Meenakshi, scenes from their wedding as well as the figures of ten of the Nayakar Kings and their consorts. This is also called the Pudhu Mandapam.

Meenakshi-Sundareswarar Thirukkalyanam [Celestial Marriage]

While the major festivals of Tamil Nadu are celebrated here with gaiety that equals the rest of the state, the most important moment in Madurai is the Chitrai festival that is held in April/May, when the celestial marriage of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar is celebrated, drawing a huge crowd of people from all over the state.

Meenakshi-Sundareswarar Thirukkalyanam (wedding) is celebrated every year in the month of Chithirai (March/April). The Meenakshi temple is always filled with worshippers, but its grandest moments are in Chithirai, when a veritable human sea floods the temple on all ten days of the festival.

The legend in paint takes the viewer back to the days of Malayadwaja Pandya.The king was childless for long. To win the favour of the gods in order to ensure an heir to the throne, he performed an elaborate yagna (sacrificial rites before a scared fire). To the wonder of all, a three-year-old girl emerged from the fire, ran to Queen Kanchanamala and sat on her lap. The king and queen were happy, although the girl’s abnormality – she had three breasts – puzzled them. The princess was Parvathi, Shiva’s heavenly consort. Kanachanamala, as Vidyavathi in a previous birth, had received for her penance a boon from the Goddess whereby Parvathi would one day be brought up as Her daughter. The Goddess thus fulfilled Vidyavathi’s wish.

A divine voice assured the king that deformity would disappear as soon as she met her consort. disappear as soon as she met her consort. The princess who was named Meenakshi, grew to be a beautiful young woman of great valour who conquered several lands and challenged the mightiest kings including Indra, the King of the Devas. Indira appealed to Lord Shiva for protection and Meenakshi, chasing the fleeing king, confronted Lord Shiva whereby Her third breast disappeared.

After their marriage, Lord Shiva and Parvathi rules over Madurai for a while and later settled in the Madurai temple as Meenakshi and Sundareswarar. The marriage was taken place and attended by Ganapathi, All Devas, Indran, varunan, agni, vayu, Muruga, Vishnu. Lord Vishnu gave Parvathi as He was the elder brother.

MIRACLES IN MADURAI AND LEGEND

Hidden in the mists of hoary past, these stories give a 'tatroopa' account of a Faith as old as the earth itself, if not older. More recent miracles have a more solid base. In 1812, Rous Peter was the Collector of Madurai. He treated the people so kindly that he was called Peter Pandian by them. One night, there was heavy rain with lightening and thunder. Suddenly a small girl entered Peter's bedroom, woke him up and asked him to go out. As soon as he came out, lightning destroyed the room The girl disappeared. Peter believed that Sree Meenakshi had saved him. He presented a pair of golden stirrups, embedded with precious stones for use on the idol of Meenakshi when taken in procession.

The paintings on the walls of Meenakshi temple will illustrate the story of Goddess Meenakshi as the princess of Madurai.

MADURAI

Madurai is a 2600 years old historical city surrounded by elegant natural plantations, hills, dams and mills situated in the middle of Tamil Nadu, India.

The city is known for its rich heritage, culture and historical background in the sense that Lord Shiva Himself performed sixty-four wonders called "Thiruvilaiyadals" in Madurai many centuries ago. Madurai is located on banks of river Vaigai and was the capital of Pandya kingdom.

Madurai is the busiest commercial center in south Tamilnadu. This sacred city of South India attracts thousands of pilgrims and visitors from India and abroad. Legend says, Madurai was once called forest Kadambavanam. Once a merchant named Dhananjaya who was passing through the forest, saw Indran - the king of Gods, worshipping a SWAYAMBHULINGAM under a kadamba tree in the forest. This was reported immediately to the king KULASHEKARA PANDYAN. Kulashekara cleared the forest and built a magnificent Sri Meenakshi Sundereswarar temple around the sacred LINGAM and he built a lotus shaped city around the temple. On the naming ceremony of the city, Lord Shiva appeared magnificently to bless the city. The divine nectar (madhu) from the matted locks of Shiva fell on the blessed city. So, then the city was named "Madhurapuri". Madurai has reference in the great Indian epics - Ramayana , Kautilyas and Arthasastra.

As early as the 302BC, Megasthanes visited Madurai. Great travel-historians like Pliny (77AD) and Ptolemy (140AD) have made reference to Madurai in their travelogues. Marcopolo visited Madurai in 1293AD followed by Ibn Batuta in 1333AD. Later many people from Rome and Greece visited Madurai and established trade with the Pandya kings.

During the 10 century AD, Madurai was captured by Cholas. The Cholas ruled Madurai from 920 AD till the beginning of the 13th century. In 1223 AD Pandyas regained their kingdom and once again become prosperous. Pandian Kings patronised Tamil language in a great way. During their period, many master-pieces were created. "Silapthikaram", the great epic in Tamil was written based on the story of Kannagi who burnt Madurai as a result of the injustice caused to her husband Kovalan. In April 1311, Malik Kafur, the general of Alauddin Khilji who was then the ruler of Delhi, reached Madurai and raided and robbed the city for precious stones, jewels, and other rare treasures. This led to the subsequent raids by other Muslim Sultans. In 1323, the Pandya kingdom including Madurai became a province of the Delhi empire, under the Tughlaks.

The 1371, the Vijayanagar dynasty of Hampi captured Madurai and Madurai became part of the Vijayanagar empire. Kings of this dynasty were in habit of leaving the captured land to governors called Nayakars. This was done for the efficient management of their empire. The Nayakars paid fixed amount annually to the Vijayanagar empire. After the death of Krishna Deva Raya(King of Vijayanagar empire) in 1530 AD, the Nayaks became independent and ruled the territories under their control. Among Nayakars, Thirumalai Nayakar (1623-1659) was very popular, even now he is popular among people, since, it was he who contributed to the creation of many magnificent structures in and around Madurai. The Raja Gopuram of the Meenakshi Amman Temple, The Pudu Mandapam and The Thirumalai Nayakar's Palace are living monuments to his artistic fervor. The 200 - year old reign of the Nayakars marks the golden period of Madurai when art, architecture and learning, scaled new heights. In fact, the most beautiful buildings in the city including its most famous landmark, the Meenakshi temple, are Nayakars' contributions.

The temple structure

Shrines

The Shiva shrine lies at the centre of the complex, suggesting that the ritual dominance of the goddess developed later. The Shiva shrine also consists of an unusual sculpture of the Hindu god Nataraja.

This famous Hindu marquee and a dancing form of Shiva that normally has his left foot raised, has his right foot raised in this temple. According to the legend, this is on the request of the Rajasekara Pandya king who asked the Lord to change his position, as he felt that always keeping a single foot raised will pose enormous stress on that, based on his personal experiments in dancing.

This massive Nataraja sculpture is enclosed in a huge silver altar and hence called Velli Ambalam (Silver abode). Outside the Shrine, lies huge scultptures carved of single stone and there is a shrine for a giant Ganesh temple, called the Mukuruny Vinayakar. This idol is believed to have been found during an excavation process to dig the temple lake.The Meenkashi shrine is on the left of the Shiva shrine and is of scultpturally less valuable than the Shiva shrine.

The lake Potramarai

Potramarai Kulam, the sacred pond measuring 165 ft (50 m) by 120 ft (37 m), inside the temple is a very holy site for the devotees and people go around the lake before entering the main shrine. The etymology for the word means, the Pond with the Golden Lily and as the Lily that grows in it has a golden color. According to the legend, Lord Shiva promised to a stork that no fish or other marine life would grow here and thus no marine animals are found in the lake. In the Tamil legends, the lake is supposed to be a judge for judging a worth of a new literature. Thus, authors place their works here and the poorly written works are supposed to sink and the scholastic ones are supposed to float.

Thousand Pillar Hall

Thousand Pillar hall of Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple was built with the oldest Nellaiappar Temple,Tirunleveli as a model. The Aayiram Kaal Mandapam or thousand pillar hall is of very high sculptural importance and contains 985 (instead of 1000) magnificiently carved pillars and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The thousand pillar hall is supposed to have been built by Arya Natha Mudaliyar, the Prime Minister of the first Nayaka of Madurai (1559-1600 A.D.), the founder of 'Poligar System'. An equestrian statue of the Mudaliyar flanks one side of the steps leading to the 'mandapam'. Each pillar is sculptured and is a monument of the Dravidian sculpture. There is a Temple Art Museum in this 1000 pillars hall where you can see icons, photographs, drawings, etc., exhibiting the 1200 years old history. Just outside this mandapam, towards the west, are the Musical Pillars. Each pillar, when struck, produces a different musical note. The kalyana mandapa, to the south of the pillared hall, is where the marriage of Shiva and Parvati is celebrated every year during the Chithirai Festival in mid-April.

Meenakshi Amman Temple Nayaka Period (16th - 17th century)

"The temple city of Madurai is situated at a distance of 307 miles south of Madras on the main railway line. This is decidedly the oldest city of South India, truly representing Dravidian culture. European scholars have compared it to Athens of Greece. It was in the past the seat of the Tamil Academy (the Tamil Sangam) .... It is estimated that there are 33 million carvings in the Madurai temple. The temple stands in the centre of the town and main roads run roughly parallel to the four sides. A writer has described the architecture as follows: "The architecture is almost purely Dravidian - its characteristics being the pyramidal towers of colossal height dominating the surrounding landscape for miles around; the rectangular enclosures one within the other like a China box; the use of the flat roof and the entire absence of the arch or dome; delicate sculpture worked in ponderous material, and finally a partiality for long galleries interspersed with sculptured pillars..."

"Gopuram, in South Indian architecture, is the entrance gateway to the Hindu temple enclosure. Relatively small in the earlier period, the gopuras grew in size from the mid-12th century until the colossal gateways came to dominate the temple complex, quite surpassing the main sanctum for architectural elaboration.."

"...Tirumulla Nayak commenced a gopura, which, had he lived to complete it, would probably have been the finest edifice of its class in southern India. It measures 174 ft. from north to south, and 107 ft. in depth. The entrance through it is 21 ft. 9 in. wide; and if it be true that its gateposts are 6o ft. (Tripe says 57 ft.) in height, that would have been the height of the opening. It will thus be seen that it was designed on even a larger scale than that at Sri Rangam, and it certainly far surpasses that celebrated edifice in the beauty of its details. Its doorposts alone, whether 57 ft. or 6o ft. in height, are single blocks of granite, carved with the most exquisite scroll patterns of elaborate foliage, and all the other carvings are equally beautiful. Being unfinished, and consequently never consecrated, it has escaped whitewash, and alone, of all the buildings of Madura, its beauties can still be admired in their original perfection. The great temple at Madura ...possesses...all the characteristics of a first-class Dravidian temple, and, as its date is perfectly well known, it forms a landmark of the utmost value in enabling us to fix the relative date of other temples. The sanctuary is said to have been built by Viswanath, the first king of the Nayak dynasty, A.D. 1520, which may possibly be the case; but the temple itself certainly owes all its magnificence to Tirumulla Nayak, A.D. 1622-1657, or to his elder brother, Muttu Virappa, who preceded him, and who built a mantapa, said to be the oldest thing now existing here. The Kalyana mantapa is said to have been built A.D. 1707, and the Tatta Suddhi in 1770.These, however, are insignificant parts compared with those which certainly owe their origin to Tirumulla Nayak..."

Meenakshi Temple a world wonder

TAJ Mahal: No. 3. Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple: No. 26.

That's what you'll find if you go to www.newsevenwonders.com and check out the list of top nominees for the fresh list of `seven wonders of the world.' The list is drawn up by the `new seven wonders foundation,' established by Swiss filmmaker and adventurer Bernard Weber.

The `Seven Ancient Wonders of the World' was selected by Philon of Byzantium in 200 B.C. The new seven wonders will be democratically selected through an Internet-based voting process. Any group of seven people can put up a nomination for voting.

The process started in 2001 and the New Seven Wonders will be announced on January 1, 2006.

The nominations that make it to the first 21 by February 28 will enter the second phase of voting. Taj Mahal is almost certainly in. Will the Meenakshi Temple make it to the finals?

"The selection of Meenakshi Temple is not just a matter of pride. It will greatly enhance the tourism potential of the entire State," says S. Rethinavelu, President of the Madurai-based Tamilnadu Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Already a lot of time has been lost because nobody knew of even the `new seven wonders' effort, let alone the temple's nomination. The nomination itself was the work of the Indian diaspora, to whom the credit of bringing the temple to the No. 26 spot belongs.

What happens in the next fortnight will make a big difference to the development of Madurai in particular and Tamil Nadu in general.

In recent times there has been a tremendous public participation, says T. Kannan, Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Meenakshi Amman temple and a past Chairman of the Southern Region of the Confederation of Indian Industry. Indeed, the temple ranks first in the list of `Top 7 of the Week.' So a little more effort, one more shove, will do the trick.

To vote, a person has to make an international call to one of the two numbers (372-54-111-443 or 372-54-111-444) and get a six-digit code, which is valid for an hour. Then he goes to the seven wonders Web site, enters the code and casts his vote.

Many institutions can help the cause of the Meenakshi temple. The Tamilnadu Chamber put up a special stall at the Chamber's Trade Fair recently, where visitors could call the numbers and cast their votes. The chamber subsidised the cost of the calls.

"Our State Government is investing several thousands of crores of rupees for development of trade, industry and tourism in the State. We should not let this rare opportunity slip away," Rethinavelu has said in a letter to the Chief Minister.

The Chamber has called upon the State Government to set up facilities for Internet voting at concessional rates at several points throughout the State. "Even a mere statement by the Chief Minister requesting people to vote in favour of the temple will he a big help," Rethinavelu told Business Line.

The Meenakshi temple attracts some 6,000 visitors a day on an average. According to Kannan, this will go up by at least 50 per cent, if the temple is announced as one among the seven wonders of the world.

The temple gets annual revenues of about Rs 6 crore. This amount can be raised to at least Rs 7.5 crore if only the shops on the temple land are made to pay a fair rent to the temple. "Just the arrears from them is Rs 4 crore," Kannan said. The trustees are also trying to clear encroachments on the temple land, for which an order has been obtained under Section 78 of the Tamil Nadu Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Act.